Posted on December 8, 2017
Standing atop Thompson Peak
The forest was dryer than a Saturday night with Steven Wright. Smoke hung in the air making it aggravating to be outdoors for long periods of time. I had my fill of Montana earlier in the summer when me and a friend had went on a weeklong trip peak bagging and exploring Glacier Park. It was the middle of August last summer and Montana was beginning one of its worst fire seasons in history. Me and two of my closest friends loaded up my Subaru and headed for Stanley Idaho, gateway to the Sawtooths!
We spent our first night in Missoula Montana, near where the worst of the fires were burning. The next day we made the long drive through the Bitteroot Valley and then up and over Lost Trail Pass into Idaho. From there we followed the Snake River all the way into Stanley.
Stanley is a tiny remote community located in Central Idaho. Being bordered on all sides by National Forests and Wilderness areas it truly is a town isolated from everything but nature. It caters to backpackers and tourists as it is the only place to resupply in the area. Many of the people that work there over the summer months come from all over the world and it makes sense. Who wouldn’t want to spend a summer soaking in countless hot springs and discovering oneself in the vast Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness? Or maybe climbing the jagged peaks of the Sawtooth Wilderness that tower above the valley like a scene out of a Lord of the Rings film would suit the more rugged persons fancy. Either way it is absolutely one of the more stunning settings to find yourself in.
Stanley Idaho with part of the Sawtooth range in view. Thompson peak is to the center left behind the one that looks the tallest
Upon sight of the Sawtooths I was awestruck more than once as each bend in the road showed another knifelike peak in front of me. Hence the name Sawtooths is more understood once one sees them.
Our adventure there started the second night of our trip. After driving all day from Montana we found a National Forest campground about 15 minutes east of Stanley and that is where we spent the night. The stars were so bright I had to try my luck on some astrophotography with my new lens. I snapped a few and crashed shortly after my comrades had retired.
Same Range just further away
We woke early and drove into Stanley for breakfast and coffee, mostly coffee. I wanted to make sure we knew what we were getting into before climbing the peak I had set my eyes on so I had been asking the locals about climbing Thompson Peak. Of course I had also done my fair share of internet research before arriving. Still, the morning of the climb I still stopped at the ranger station to double check. Everything looked good so we set out from the trailhead at Redfish lake. It was now around 10:00am and there was not a cloud in the sky!
We had a total of 13 miles round trip to hike but the locals claim it to be 14 instead. Elevation gain is a tough 4,200 feet. The first 3-4 miles in was very easy and fast paced. After that we took a side trail that cuts left and up a ridge. This is where the climbing starts but it is made up by the views getting better and better the higher you ascend. After climbing for a mile or two it flattens out and there is a small pond. This is where I seen some Golden Mantled ground squirrels running about hoping for some of my food
Golden Mantled Ground Squirrel
Shortly after that at around 8,000 feet we came into a basin with a large lake surrounded on almost every side by jagged peaks. It is a spectacle to behold!
Lake at around 8,000 feet
The climbing commenced again and we went off trail because snow fields had covered it up at this point. Around 9,500 feet after some scrambling we reached the top of a pass where we then made our way around the backside of Thompson Peak and attained the summit.
Atop the pass with Thompson Peak looming in the background
Sitting at 10,751 feet it is one of the more spectacular peaks I have stood on. Thomas Peak is the tallest mountain in the entire Sawtooth range. To the northwest and southwest are the countless other jagged peaks that make up the range. To the west is the valley and on the other side more mountains. To the north is the valley with the town of Stanley looking quite small tucked in it and on the other side of the valley the River of No Return Wilderness stretches on beyond sight.
Looking north from the top. Look closely to see Stanley near the large cloud shadow in the valley
Zoomed in shot looking at the jagged peaks south of the summit
We stayed on top for over an hour enjoying every minute of it. The hike down went fairly smooth and we made it back to the car right as darkness fell.
After some great food from a local restaurant and bar in Stanley I convinced my friends that although we were thoroughly tired and chaffed we could not go to bed before soaking in a nearby hot spring. That turned out to be the best idea of the evening. Shortly after arriving at the spring everyone else there left, leaving us alone to enjoy laying in the warm running water while staring up at a million stars. The spring feeds into the Snake River and people have built small pools for the water to run and mix into the river. Basically there is a pool for about every temperature of water you need. It was not until after midnight that we finally decided to leave our beautiful and restful spot. The leaving was partially due to the fact that as I was laying down in the water half asleep with only my belly and chest protruding something ran across my belly! More like slithered! I think it was a snake. That ended my relaxation there quickly I am sad to tell you.
Hiking down with the sun setting on the peaks
We drove back towards Stanley and found a forest service road leading into the mountains north of the river. We made camp next to a creek a couple miles up. It was near our campsite that I snapped the picture of the stars I have shared with you below. The next morning we broke camp and headed south towards Sun Valley, where another adventure awaited. But that story is for another time.
Stars near our campsite
Even though I spent only two days in Central Idaho last summer it was one of the more memorable spots I visited. If you have a chance to go there do it! You will not be disappointed.
The people of Stanley are hospitable and kind. However, certain areas are extremely busy in the summer months. Places like the Redfish lake campgrounds are booked months in advance. You can find peace and solitude if you are not afraid to go off the beaten path a little and I recommend doing just that. If you do decide to stay in the more popular areas you will still find it enjoyable.
Whether you want to sit back and relax, get lost in the wilderness, fly fish the river, or climb a peak you can find it all in and around Stanley Idaho. See you there my friend!
Signed, a Sawtooth adventurer